Exploring the History of Make Up: From Ritual to Revolution

By Srijani Mitra

The ancient allure of cosmetics

Makeup is more than just colored pigments and powders—it’s a living chronicle and testimonial of human civilization, reflecting our deepest desires, fears, and aspirational aesthetics. From the sacred kohl of Egyptian priests to the avant-garde looks seen on today’s runways, beauty products have always been deeply entrenched in identity, power, and artistry.

This journey through makeup’s evolution reveals not just changing trends, but how society defines beauty, gender, and self-worth. We’ll explore its ancient roots, its controversial role in feminism, and why, even in an age of bare-faced authenticity, cosmetics remain a billion-dollar testament to human creativity.

Ancient Beauty: Divine Origins 

Egypt: Where Makeup Was Magic

Long before beauty influencers, the Egyptians (3000 BCE) treated cosmetics as sacred alchemy. Both men and women rimmed their eyes with kohl, believing it protected against the evil eye and infections (modern science confirms its antibacterial properties). Cleopatra’s iconic green malachite eyeshadow and red ochre lips weren’t just fashion—they were representatives of divinity and status.

But beauty came at a cost. The Romans whitened their skin with lead paste, unknowingly poisoning themselves for the sake of fashion. Meanwhile, in China, nail color indicated social rank—gold and silver for royalty, while lower classes wore muted tones.

The Middle Ages: Sinful Vanity or Silent Rebellion?

In medieval Europe, the Church condemned makeup as deceitful, associating red lips with witchcraft. Yet, women still found ways to enhance their looks—using lemon juice to lighten hair or berry stains on lips. By the Renaissance, Queen Elizabeth I’s stark white lead face paint and crimson lips set a dangerous beauty standard, one that often led to hair loss and early death.

The Birth of Modern Beauty: From Apothecaries to Empires

The 1800s were an era of contradictions. Publicly, Queen Victoria declared makeup “vulgar,” yet women secretly pinched their cheeks. The industrial revolution changed everything—rouge pots and lip tints became mass-produced, and by 1915, Maurice Levy’s metal lipstick tube made cosmetics portable and socially acceptable.

The Golden Age of Glamour: Hollywood’s Influence

The 1920s-1950s transformed makeup into a symbol of emancipation and fantasy. Silent film stars like Clara Bow popularized cupid’s bow lips, while Max Factor’s Pan-Cake Makeup set the stage for HD beauty decades before its time. Elizabeth Taylor’s violet eyeshadow and Audrey Hepburn’s bold brows became blueprints for elegance. Yet, behind the glitter, sexism lingered. Ads pushed narratives like, "Can he tell you’re wearing makeup? (He shouldn’t.)"—implying beauty was a performance for male approval.

Makeup and Feminism: Oppression or Empowerment?

The Second-Wave Rebellion

In the 1960s-70s, radical feminists like Germaine Greer denounced makeup as "the oppressive mask of patriarchy." Protesters tossed lipsticks into "freedom trash cans," equating cosmetics with societal pressure.

But others disagreed. Diana Vreeland, Vogue’s editor, declared, "Makeup is the ultimate tool of self-invention." Women in male-dominated fields used subtle contouring to appear "polished" without seeming "vain."

The Modern Dilemma: Choice vs. Expectation

Today, the debate continues. #NoMakeup movements celebrate natural faces, yet Instagram contouring and lip fillers dominate trends. Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty revolutionized inclusivity, while Gen Z embraces "skinimalism"—bare skin with a touch of gloss.

Is makeup art or armor? 

The answer lies in who holds the brush. For some, it’s a creative escape; for others, a corporate requirement. As feminist writer Naomi Wolf argued, "The real question isn’t whether women wear makeup—it’s whether they have the freedom to choose."

The Future of Beauty: Beyond Gender and Filters

The next frontier? Gender-neutral makeup. Brands like Fluide and Milk Makeup challenge old norms, while virtual try-ons and AI beauty tech redefine self-expression. Yet, as we embrace augmented reality filters, we must ask: Are we enhancing ourselves, or erasing our humanity?

Makeup has been a ritual, a rebellion, and a billion-dollar industry. It reveals our obsession with youth, our struggle for autonomy, and our endless quest to be seen. Whether you swipe on red lipstick as war paint or reject cosmetics altogether, one truth remains: beauty is never just skin deep—it’s a reflection of the times we live in.

So, the next time you reach for that eyeliner, remember—you’re not just applying makeup. You’re wearing history.

Srijani Mitra is a writer based in India. Her works have been published in magazines such as ItGetsBetter, Chatauqua Journal, and Science for the People. She has experience writing for beauty blogs.